We have been to many places claiming the title of “culinary capital” — Oaxaca earns it without argument.
The Mole Tradition
Seven moles are native to Oaxaca, each a different expression of chile-based complexity. Mole negro is the most famous — dark, complex, smoky, with chocolate undertones and dozens of ingredients that take days to prepare. Mole amarillo is brighter and lighter. Coloradito is rich and red.
The best place to start is Mercado 20 de Noviembre, where the empanada and mole stands have been cooking the same recipes for generations. Don’t overthink it — just point at what looks good.
Mezcal and the Palenque Experience
Oaxaca is where mezcal is made the old way. In villages like San Baltazar Guelavila and Matatlan, small producers roast agave in underground pits lined with hot rocks, crush it with stone wheels pulled by horses, and distill in clay pots. The result bears no resemblance to the commercial bottles you’ve seen at airport duty-free.
A palenque visit is the best single experience in Oaxaca. Tasting directly from the producer, surrounded by the roasting agave scent, understanding the labor behind each bottle — it changes how you think about the spirit.
Markets and Crafts
Oaxacan artisans are among the most skilled in Mexico. The Mercado Benito Juarez and surrounding streets sell:
- Barro negro — distinctive black clay pottery from San Bartolo Coyotepec
- Alebrijes — fantastical painted wooden animal sculptures from Arrazola
- Huipiles — traditional embroidered garments from Teotitlan del Valle
- Rugs — hand-woven wool rugs from Zapotec weavers, still using natural dyes
Scott’s Tips for Oaxaca
Getting Around: Oaxaca City centro is entirely walkable. Taxis are cheap for day trips. Rent a car for Hierve el Agua and mezcal villages on the same day.
Altitude: Oaxaca is at 1,550m — less than Mexico City. Adjustment is easier.
Day of the Dead: If you can be here October 31–November 2, book 6+ months ahead. Hotel rooms disappear by August. It is the most moving cultural experience in Mexico.
Budget: Oaxaca is excellent value. A full meal at a market stall costs MXN 100-150. Even the acclaimed restaurants are affordable by international standards.